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Page 1
<B>Intro</B>:
You all know about <a href="http://www.xoxide.com">Xoxide</a> cases by now. A baybus allows you to control a number of things that run off the 12v lines in the case. This is the first one I've seen that is variable speed! By the way, this is the first article to use the new image functions on the site. That is why there are thumbnails and other cool stuff!
<B>The Stuff</B>:
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Here we have the box and the packaging. As usual, Xoxide does a good job in keeping the insides save from UPS death. UPS has sent some stuff that had bents and other things in the box, this is important that Xoxide has good packing protection.
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Here are the parts that are in the box. You have two papers for instructions (that are useless), a Y power connector, some screws, and the baybus. The reason the instructions are pretty much useless is that the unit is fully assembled. The actual product is made by Sunbeam, which ships it in parts. Remember, Xoxide is a modding company.
<B>The Baybus</B>:
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Here we have the front and top views of the baybus. As you can see, it fits in the 5 1/4 inch bay (hence Baybus). This goes perfect in an Aluminum case. It didn't look bad in my black case either, but your tastes may vary. There is a major downside to this baybus. The fan power connectors are screw down wire leads. That means, you'll either do some molex modding, or splice/cut your fan wires. This is a large negative. Let me show you how I conquered this problem without messing up my fans.
<B>Intro</B>:
You all know about <a href="http://www.xoxide.com">Xoxide</a> cases by now. A baybus allows you to control a number of things that run off the 12v lines in the case. This is the first one I've seen that is variable speed! By the way, this is the first article to use the new image functions on the site. That is why there are thumbnails and other cool stuff!
<B>The Stuff</B>:
<CENTER>
</CENTER>
Here we have the box and the packaging. As usual, Xoxide does a good job in keeping the insides save from UPS death. UPS has sent some stuff that had bents and other things in the box, this is important that Xoxide has good packing protection.
<CENTER>
</CENTER>
Here are the parts that are in the box. You have two papers for instructions (that are useless), a Y power connector, some screws, and the baybus. The reason the instructions are pretty much useless is that the unit is fully assembled. The actual product is made by Sunbeam, which ships it in parts. Remember, Xoxide is a modding company.
<B>The Baybus</B>:
<CENTER>
</CENTER>
Here we have the front and top views of the baybus. As you can see, it fits in the 5 1/4 inch bay (hence Baybus). This goes perfect in an Aluminum case. It didn't look bad in my black case either, but your tastes may vary. There is a major downside to this baybus. The fan power connectors are screw down wire leads. That means, you'll either do some molex modding, or splice/cut your fan wires. This is a large negative. Let me show you how I conquered this problem without messing up my fans.
Page 2
<B>The 486 PSU</B>:
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This trick works if you have an old, or unused power supply. The one pictured is from an old 486 I had in the basement. Your going to cut off the molex connectors with enough wire to meet your needs.
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</CENTER>
Once you have done that, cut off the red/black combo from one side and leave the orange or yellow and black combo. That provides the +12v and ground that you'll be using. Strip a small amount of the wire at the end. Insert the lead into the Source/Ground (Red/Black) of the baybus.
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When I did that, it was time to really test the unit. What upset me was the fact that there is no 'off' setting on the baybus. If you need one, look at the 6 port one that Xoxide has. You can clearly see from right to left the different settings of the baybus (Right to left: High, Middle, Low). It is pretty neat to have a variable cathode in your case. The blue LEDs go brighter or dimmer in regards to the power you give it. It didn't change much though on some channels. The more drain that you put on it (IE: 2 fans as opposed to 1) the less of a change the LED will do. I don't know why that is!
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Once I knew the baybus worked, I testing all channels with my mini mod.
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Here is what the unit looks like all ready to be inserted into a case. Now this is what the baybus should have had in the first place.
<B>The 486 PSU</B>:
<CENTER>
</CENTER>
This trick works if you have an old, or unused power supply. The one pictured is from an old 486 I had in the basement. Your going to cut off the molex connectors with enough wire to meet your needs.
<CENTER>
</CENTER>
Once you have done that, cut off the red/black combo from one side and leave the orange or yellow and black combo. That provides the +12v and ground that you'll be using. Strip a small amount of the wire at the end. Insert the lead into the Source/Ground (Red/Black) of the baybus.
<CENTER>
</CENTER>
When I did that, it was time to really test the unit. What upset me was the fact that there is no 'off' setting on the baybus. If you need one, look at the 6 port one that Xoxide has. You can clearly see from right to left the different settings of the baybus (Right to left: High, Middle, Low). It is pretty neat to have a variable cathode in your case. The blue LEDs go brighter or dimmer in regards to the power you give it. It didn't change much though on some channels. The more drain that you put on it (IE: 2 fans as opposed to 1) the less of a change the LED will do. I don't know why that is!
<CENTER>
</CENTER>
Once I knew the baybus worked, I testing all channels with my mini mod.
<CENTER>
</CENTER>
Here is what the unit looks like all ready to be inserted into a case. Now this is what the baybus should have had in the first place.
Page 3
<B>The In Case Test</B>:
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When I put the fans from the <A HREF="articles.php?id=24">C-6 Blackhawk</A> (6 of them), I really did notice a HUGE difference when I lowered them half way, and even more when on the lowest strength. At lowest strength, my CPU fan on my Volcano 7 was more apparent than the case fans. But as I said earlier, there is no off switch. I also had an Antec LED fan in the case, the LEDs would go dimmer and brighter as I varied the baybus, a cool effect.
<B>Conclusion</B>:
Xoxide has made a nice addition to the baybus by adding variable speeds. That being said, there are a few problems that I noted with this unit, hopefully, these will be fixed over time. The major problem, is not having molex connectors for the fans. Once that problem is fixed, then this unit would be great for beginners. The price now is around $35, but If your a beginner, please look away from this! If your good with stripping, slicing, splicing and are not worried about getting your hands dirty, this may be the right thing for you. I'd like to thank Chris over at <a href="http://www.xoxide.com">Xoxide</a> for sending this unit for review.
<B>The In Case Test</B>:
<CENTER>
</CENTER>
When I put the fans from the <A HREF="articles.php?id=24">C-6 Blackhawk</A> (6 of them), I really did notice a HUGE difference when I lowered them half way, and even more when on the lowest strength. At lowest strength, my CPU fan on my Volcano 7 was more apparent than the case fans. But as I said earlier, there is no off switch. I also had an Antec LED fan in the case, the LEDs would go dimmer and brighter as I varied the baybus, a cool effect.
<B>Conclusion</B>:
Xoxide has made a nice addition to the baybus by adding variable speeds. That being said, there are a few problems that I noted with this unit, hopefully, these will be fixed over time. The major problem, is not having molex connectors for the fans. Once that problem is fixed, then this unit would be great for beginners. The price now is around $35, but If your a beginner, please look away from this! If your good with stripping, slicing, splicing and are not worried about getting your hands dirty, this may be the right thing for you. I'd like to thank Chris over at <a href="http://www.xoxide.com">Xoxide</a> for sending this unit for review.